It was
getting a bit too much that Madhusree was yet to see the Viswanath Temple of
Benaras. So, braving the hot and humid weather, we set afoot in the city,
booked a day taxi travelled across its lanes and made a visit to the temple
just as it opened for the devotees to pour yet another bout of water on the
Lord’s head. We were sweating buckets, so was our driver and the heat made him
so irritable that he drove the guide out of our way, leaving us to make sense
of the relics all by ourselves.
I realized,
especially after reading B.C.Bhattacharjee’s book, Sarnath published by the
Pilgrim’s Press in 1942, that essentially Sarnath is the ancient city upon
which the city of Kashi came up only in the early medieval era. Sarnath was
originally called as Mrigadaya, renamed as Sarnath during the medieval era
after a yogi turned minor God, called Saranginath; possibly because he played
the sarangi. This was the place where Buddha first became a religious leader
and a small sangha was formed with five disciples among who one was named
Bappa. Since this name is very common among Rajasthanis of the time, it is
possible that he was a Rajasthani; of the rest, one sounded a Sinhala, but the
rest were Sikkimese or Tibetans. Interestingly, one wonders that during the
time of Buddha, what were so many ethnicities doing in India? I read in
Niharranjan Ray, that after the Aryans, the next stream of migration, and
indeed a heavy were the Sino Mongolian races, and this may have had something
to do with those who gathered around Buddha as he preached peace.
Buddha is
clearly against the Vedic Hinduism of the Aryans that involved sacrifices and
war. He seems to belong to a culture that belonged to India before the Aryans
came in, invaded or migrated, or just flowed in, whatever and had a lot also to
do with the fire, were essentially violent people. And these kings also hunted
a lot and such a lot that they killed the innocent as well as the intended
prey. The Ramayana too started with the killing of an innocent boy by King
Dasarath who came on a deer hunt. The great epic, for all practical purposes
ended with a deer too when Sita made Ram run after an exquisite looking golden
foal. Mrigadaya suggests that the place originally was a land grant to the
deer, which means a protected forest. Buddhists who do not believe in killing
life and did not know yet that plants had life too, were ones to protect and
nurture forests.
The layout
of the monasteries at Sarnath are so like the construction and architecture of the
Buddhist monasteries and temple of Thailand and burnt brick is the material. The
burnt brick was the foundation of the Indus Valley civilization, it has braced the
Buddhist sites of Sarnath and the temples of Thailand, it has been found in many
sites of Bangladesh, Myanmar and Sri Lanka. The pieces of architecture added
during the Gupta period were stone works. Would that mean there is a connection
between the burnt brick economy and Buddhism? What could that be?
We visited
three temples of the Chinese, Japanese and Tibetan; architecturally these followed
the architecture of the different cultures. But most interesting were the icons;
for the Japanese, it is a Buddha lying on his side, emaciated and wasting away.
Buddha is in his death bed, facing his end which is also a conclusion and a
signing off his life. The Japanese celebrate death for it is only in the ending
that the whole life becomes evident. I can’t help but notice out of my
incorrigible habit that this is also the motif of many of Amitabh Bachchan’s
films where the hero dies in the end, bringing the adventures of the hero to a
philosophical home. Japanese novelists desire lissom beauties only to discover
that they were ghosts. Japanese have a problem with concrete bodies; they love
fine airy essences instead. The Chinese create the Buddha out of white marble,
perhaps of porcelain in their land. Here he is a teacher, filled with gold,
surrounded by disciples and students, the insignia of royal patronage, well
looked after, well respected, well fed. In most cases, he is potbellied and all
smiles, the laughing Buddha. For the Tibetan, he is a remote deity, endless in
stature, all bronze and gold when one can afford it. Dalai Lama is the avatar
and the temple really is dedicated to the Dalai Lama. The campus contains
hostels and there seems to be an active teaching programme in the temple.
Buddha is like Shiva here, remote and yet all pervasive, distant and yet all
controlling and always too big to be gauged wholly through senses. The statue
of Buddha is in bronze and is huge.
Interesting
are the frescoes on the wall containing the images of Tibetan Gods. There was a
figurine that looked like Kali fierce and most terrible but around her were
three deer and a hermit, looking totally assured and rested. Whoever had to
fear her would be the oppressor and not the ordinary mortal in the ordinary
business of life. There was a figure which resembled Vishnu with someone who
could be Naradmuni; then there was someone who could be Shiva or even Brahma.
Tibet has a lot to do with Indian religion, its idea of Gods and Goddesses,
iconography and classification of life, death, dangers and godsends.
Benaras
seems to have been originally a Buddhist site, gained its importance as a
Buddhist headquarters of the Sangha. It remained a major nadir of a grand loop
of the Buddha trail that started from Darjeeling through Sikkim, ran through
Benaras, went up to Punjab, Kashmir, Central Asia, Mongolia, China, Tibet and
back through to Darjeeling. Indeed, in Bishkek, which is the abode of Lord
Shiva according to the local mythology, because Bishkek means the staff which
is used to stir the elixir to separate the venom out of it. Lord Shiva, known
mainly in present day Kyrgyzstan was most probably brought by Kanishka.
Buddhism was the reigning religion of its times and all kings had to pay
tribute to the Sangha. Hence the Kushanas did pay obeisance to the monastery at
Mrigadaya, but it is he, who encouraged the worship of Shiva at Benaras. During
the Sungas, Hinduism revived through the revival of the sacrifice, for those
were more closely associated with the Vedic Brahminism rather than the worship
of Shiva in a temple. It was more towards the end of Harsha’s reign that the
Pratihara kings, especially King Bhoj seemed to have pampered Shiva.
Notwithstanding its rather secondary status, the temple of Shiva must have made
some mark because Mahmud of Ghazni and Qutubddin Aibak demolished the same. The
Pratiharas seem to be in control over the land because the last ruling dynasty
to lose the privy purses were Pratiharas, namely the Narain Singhs. Benaras,
with religion its core business, seems to be a business hub; in medieval days
it must have been something like Bombay.
Our driver
was a die-hard Modi fan, never finding enough words to praise him. The real
reason for his praise were the clean, wide and cemented roads that led from all
sides to Benaras. He was a youngish person with fair skin and sharp features,
very tall and lanky and looked the right kind to be an RSS pracharak. He
praised Modi for converting the ancient city to a modern one though all that we
could see that the city was shorn of its ancient pride to emerge into a tacky
wannable class III town that could be Muzaffarnagar or the outskirts of Meerut.
Benaras was an ancient city but it had a sophistication. But now in the anxiety
to belong to the mainstream of modernity, people constantly run after chimera images
while all the time hating themselves. The self-hate becomes a hate for
traditions, hate for parental authority, hate for the familiar and a strange attraction
for an unattainable state of being. I saw Benaras exactly in this sleepwalking
state of inebriated desire to be someone else and to belong to some other time.
So gone were
the paan masala and achaar shops, the glass bangle stores, the sari shops,
shops for shawls and blankets, of upholstery and fabric, of brass curios and
utensils used in puja rooms; there were mobile shops, T shirts, sequined suits for
women and that’s about all. I wanted to buy Banarasi paan masala; I found none.
Even eateries were conspicuous by their absence and talk of public toilets and
drinking water, I found none throughout the city. So much for the toilet
movement. I was stunned at the state of “fall” of a great city.
We drove
through something called a weaver’s village and our driver became very
conscious of its Muslim inhabitants. He seemed almost embarrassed at the
prospect of our eyes seeing so many Muslims with burqas and skull cap, more so
because it was a Friday and people were out because of the prayers. Weaving,
Banaras’s principle industry lies in shambles now; though the purchasing power
of the people have increased, demand for the textiles increased as well, size of
the market expanded and yet there is a problem of extreme poverty among the
weaver community in the city. This is typically the problem of overproduction.
This syndrome affects all industries; steel, cement, sugar, in short everything
else. Once overproduction sets in bringing in its onset recession, incomes,
occupations, after that communities and societies collapse.
We drove
through the BHU premises only to find that in terms of spaces, buildings, road
networks, colour schemes of the buildings, signages and even the vegetation,
the campus was a mirror image of Viswabharati University. I think that
Viswabharati was not only the benchmarked standard for academics but for design
and architecture as well. The structure and the organization of the space and
the nature of academic discourses are somehow connected perhaps through the
Kantian ideas of the concepts of the mind.
We arrived
at the temple precincts when it was about 1 pm. One had to park the car quite a
way before the temple from where we walked with our guide, the petite young Brahmin
boy. I had been to Benaras a year before I graduated and now, I visit again,
just a year before I retire, with my entire working life as an interlude.
During this period, I am supposed to see India grow, steel production has grown
over twenty times, so have the number of cars on streets, almost the entire
country has electricity, many more have access to health care and education but
the city of Benaras has been stunned and stunted by modernity into looking like
a pathetic and a nowhere mofussil trying to imitate the world and yet unable to
clear the exams. In every which way we see, Benaras is a failed city. Modi has
been here for the past five years, but there are no toilets, no drinking water,
hardly any shop from which one can buy a bottle of water. Yes, the roads are
clean but not walkable because the traffic is chaotic, traffic control is non-existent
as ever before.
In a bid to
reposition Benaras as an international tourist destination, the government has
mowed down the quintessential maze of lanes known to all Bengalis as Biswanather
Goli. The labyrinth of narrow streets of the temple premises have always held
magic to the Bengali mind; not only do we have Biwanather Goli as a figure of speech,
but Satyajit Ray seems to have permanently etched the images of these lanes
into our minds. But Modi’s idea of development has razed over 300 homes in
these lanes, crushed markets and shops under the bulldozers and with heavy
earth movers, dug out houses from the plinths extracting out over a thousand
temples from homes. In all more than 2000 families are displaced and while the
owners have some compensation, the tenants are devasted. Gone are the kachuris,
the jilipis (jalebis), the rabri, the flowers, the bangles, the cloth, the
condiments, churans, paan masalas and even the electronic markets, earlier this
used to be calculators, radios and small cameras, imported from Singapore.
There is a Singapore shop selling purses, key chains and some sundry stuff
outside on the main road. The maze of lanes that was the magic of Satyajit
Ray’s Joy Baba Felunath now lies in debris like Mukul’s Sonar Kella. A township
of 600 years is wrecked in order to make way for the VIP car parking and a road
that connects the temple straight to the river.
There were
protests, but the water and the electricity were cut off, soil dug around the
plinth of these houses, protestors jailed and fined. No one took the matter up,
it was too small a scale to be of notice. When the males refused to part with
their homes, the girls were brought in, promised money and asked to give
consent. Since even married women have legal shares in ancestral property their
rights were used to gain access to homes in the temple campus. This has created
an intense hate of brothers towards their sisters; women are seen to have
betrayed men in joining hands with Modi; the triple talaq seems to have worked
in this way as well. No wonder then that the streets of the city are now
invaded by hawkers, parked cars which serve as shops, the city looks quite
dead, a ghost of its former self without the lights, the smell, the flavours
and the sounds of these small lanes. The core of its beauty, the temple
township is gone forever; the road to the temple is now by boating through the
river, then climbing up on a rampart and then viewing the God which is in the
form of a linga sunk into the earth.
The locals
are upset at the community of the temple town being so displaced but finding
the State to be too powerful have paradoxically voted for the very party that
inflicted such a pain on them. This is perhaps called the Stockholm syndrome;
victim’s love for the oppressor, for that love is the only way to overcome
one’s victimhood. They were all echoing the same thing; one must forget Gandhi,
one must forget the past, one has to change, one has to evolve and for this
icons must be broken just as their own temples over generations and crumpled
into ruins and loaded on to trucks as garbage. In this helplessness, in this
forced submission to change, humans are emerging as intolerant hatemongers; the
very promise of development of infrastructure is searing through our social and
national fabric.
A sail on
the river by the ghats is so revealing of the power structures of the city. The
city and the temple as we know it today was built by the Holkars, Ahalyabai
Holkar to be specific. Hers is the massive ghat, tall, broad and majestic. Then
there is the Scindia ghat, elegant and tastefully done up. There is the Bhosale
ghat, the descendants of Shivaji, bare, minimalistic and barbaric, much like the
persona of the Chhatrapati. As the Marathas are ascending, the Rajputs are
declining. The ghats of the Rajput princes are modest while there are wannabes
and nouveau rich from Bihar and Bengal who squeeze in their ghats as well. The
Manikarnika Ghat, the Assi Ghat and the Dashaswamedh seem to be ancient ghats
which perhaps predated the Marathas and were more concerned with ablutions and
cremations in the river Ganges rather than obeisance to the linga of Shiva. As the
sun goes down resplendently costumed Brahmins choreograph an arati to the
Ganges. Sanskrit has always been a poetic language and lends itself beautifully
to the metres of the mantra, the chime of the bells and the swirl of the lamps
made for quite a heady experience.
With the
decline of its heritage and the death of its galis, kachauris and jalebis no
longer taste the same. The potato stew is tasteless though the service is as
cordial as ever before. The thick sugary and milky tea is tolerable, but the crockery
of tacky stainless steel is reprehensible. Back to the hotel, we rejoiced over
a buffet of the most resplendently cooked kebabs; Benaras has little
competition where Mughlai non vegetarian food is concerned. The following morning,
we hit the highway again, the very system of highways on which India’s fleeting
growth depends on. We reach the airport much before time with ample opportunities
to blow up money on yet another round of shopping. I buy a liberal pile of
books among which is Roerich’s travels in the Himalayas where Varanasi is an
important node in the circuit of trans Himalayan transactions of ancient times.
They say in Kyrgyzstan that since Bishkek and Kashi are on the same longitude,
the Ganges starts to flow back towards Bishkek in Benaras. That flow back is
thought to be an attempt of the Ganges at connecting with the original stream
which ended in the Lake of Issykul before the Himalayas rose out of that tectonic
shift taking the Ganga with it. Bishkek is imagined to be the abode of Lord
Shiva, who looks so much like Buddha as well as Ganesha in Central Asia. Iravati
in Myanmar is yet another arm of the Ganges which rises again from the Arakans
after it is hived off by the rise of the Himalayas.