I spent a weekend at a hotel suite of a friend in Vrindavan located on the outskirts of the temple town adjacent to other posh properties like the Taj Vivanta, Radissons and Best Western. Far from the dusty, muddy and noisy and chaotic town of Vrindavan, this get away was a welcome quiet retreat. Vrindavan, a city usually thought to have been founded in the 16th century by the Vaishnav devotees of Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, it was protected by Akbar and eventually the Mughals as a haven for the Hindu women pilgrims, who were mostly the cast away widows and even rescued from Sati. But there is mention of Vrindavan as a place where Sanatan, Jeeb and Rup Goswami did their penance after reconverting to Vaishnavism from Islam, a religion they had to accept because of their employment in the Sultanate.
What shocked me about the city was its saline water and I wondered why no one ever mentions this. The water is not potable at all and unfit for any purpose of even bathing or washing clothes let alone cooking. It is a wonder how the city was ever inhabited and perhaps because of this, the city neither had rich merchants nor was attacked by conquerors. The city was safe because it was uninhabitable due to non-potable water. The salinity cannot be a recent phenomenon of over extraction or the receding of Yamuna because myth has it that the water is the tears of the Gopis who cried when Krishna left the city to travel to Mathura. The water in Mathura is also brackish and so that of Barsana and other cities in the area called Brijbhumi.
Brijbhumi has been part forest and part pastures for cows as Krishna is a cowherd. The Krishna myth emerged at the 1st CE but he as a cowherd with a specific location in Brijbhumi along with Radha 1300 hundred years later. It was not before the 12th and 13th centuries that Radha Krishna entered the divine pantheon of the Hindus. The myth coincides with the settlement of the town by the Vaishnav saints. It was the myth that made the city.
Vrindavan has got a new lease of life at present. Under the resurgence of religiosity and faith, it poised to become a hot tourist destination. As the Taj Mahal began to be bad mouthed under the Hindutva discourse, young renegade couples went off on get-away trips to Vrindavan instead of to Agra. The craze for Hindu symbols overtook the interest over Mughal monuments and the flow of tourists was collected in the cul de sac of Vrindavan. Hence, hotels of elevated stars emerged and following which posh residential complexes with swimming pool and gym also mushroomed. Vrindavan became the destination for real estate investors. With the air pollution rising in Delhi along with high costs of living, Vrindavan is yet another destination for urban refugees, or refugees of urbanization. Along with the wave of urbanization, comes the migrant labour who intermarry among castes and ethnicities to create composite cultures united by their allegiance to the city and hence the ideology of Lord Krishna.
Vrindavan, even in its modern resurrected form remains the lethal combination of a tourist cum refugee destination. Its religious ideology is crucial to its city life, Krishna and Radha are central to the building of the urban conglomerate, and when such religious ideology engenders a sense of belonging to the city, Vrindavan becomes a city of believers in myths and tales of the supernatural. The city adds an extra opportunity for refugees from reason, refugees from modern industrial life, refugees from the pressures of modernity who can then use five-star facilities to slip into the dream world of stories and folklore.
The rise of Hindutva has set off a new wave of urbanization into pilgrim cities; Varanasi, Vrindavan, Dwarka, Puri, Rameswaram and even Khajuraho, which are now combinations of tourism as well as of refuge against the liberal secular modern world of industrial reason into faith, myths and beliefs. Asylum cities such as Brindavan become hubs of puritanism, as its residents use the dedication to deities and food fads such as vegetarianism to claim a rightful place in the heritage of the city.
New high rises and posh hotels is the way that Hinduism’s tradition competes and collaborates with a secular modernity. As the city grows and that too it grows for an urban elite, elite because she can afford a second home for leisure while keeping her foot in a metropolitan city for work, there is a greater pressure for the city to develop its civic amenities such as sewage treatment and drinking water, electricity and roads, garbage management and healthcare. This calls for a fundamental change in the governance system, calling for the allocation of new kinds of staff for its municipalities. The new elite pushes out the natives of the city by claiming their lands, searing through their market’s places, upsetting the apple cart of their social networks, their easy pathways in and out of temple complexes as these get cordoned off and cut out to accept tourists of the new India. The temples are no longer to be visited as mere holy places but as modern spaces where worship is modernized as are the spaces. The new development in such cities is thus both sacred and modernistic, the modernity of the sacred.
In Vrindavan, God and Mammon lie side by side; in the name of the irrefutable Divine, human considerations are brutally swept aside with land acquisitions, takeover of fertile agricultural lands, displacing native homes with their livelihoods. Communalism is rife, because swathes of land and chunks of population need to be let go off; the recent SIR survey has clearly shown that all Muslims are construed as foreigners and displaced from their homesteads. The other target are immigrants, while the immigrants are both indispensable as well as invaluable for the cities’ growth through the supply of services, there would be a discrimination on who may come and who may not and hence ethnically divide India. Cities of the present times are ideologically also pursuers of majoritarian discourse and hence intricately interweaving politics and urbanization.
Urbanization in contemporary India is based neither on economic factors, nor on intellectual contributions, nor around political importance but around religious fervor raised to feverish pitch by pushing in investments to make cities comfortable as retirement or holiday homes. Such cities promote political polarization for access to space, money, human capital through ethnically demarcated population facilitating a uniformity fit for political totalization.

